noiBaaMMnaiMM 




TACTICAL SYt 

FOR 



BLAKELY AND PATTON 



PARTI 




. . _ 'SBaWHfiJ i 

«MIWWOiH)IMMMaH)ltiWM|ll»MHItilllMII|HHIIIIIi|[|IIHIIirilC«»BCBgma»»l!igiHBi 




Class _JIX5_2uI 

Book '"3 ^ j:_ 

Gopyiight N". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE 

PRACTICAL SYSTEM 

FOR 

DRAFTING 

LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 

CLOTHING 

DESIGNED FOR USE IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS 



BY 



MRS. ELIZABETH BLAKELY 

Teacher of Sewing tn the Philadelphia Public Schools 

AND 
FRANCES PATTON 

Author of ^'Home and School Sewing'''' ; and Training 

Teacher, Departtnent of Sewing in the 

Philadelphia Normal School 



PA R.X I 



NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA 
HINDS, NOBLE & ELDREDGE 



r 



:y 



t Library of ooN(irtigs| 
Two Copies fte<:hi»s;u ji 
NOV 11 \mi j 



Copyright. 1907 

by 

HINDS, NOBLE & ELDREDGE 



q^^^fi-t 



PRKKACK 



The object of this book is to outline a series of easy and 
practical lessons in drafting, such as are required in the course of 
study in the Philadelphia Public Schools. 

It is a recognized fact among the teachers of sewing that the 
making of stitches and applying them to seams is only a small part 
of the work involved in the teaching of sewing, and that the 
drafting, cutting, and making of garments must follow as a natural 
sequence . 

The following rules are designed by the authors to enable the 
pupils to take certain fundamental measurements of the body, and 
through their knowledge of drawing, apply them to the drafting of 
a pattern. 

The fact that the directions have been frequently and thoroughly 
tested in the school-room should enhance their value in the opinion 
of those interested in this line of work. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PART I. 

1. Over-sleeve. 

2. Sweeping Cap. 

3. Plain Bib. 

4. Table Bib. 

5. Infant's Bib. 

6. Clothes Pin Apron. 

7. Boy's Working Apron. 

8. Infant's Waist with Strap Over the Shoulder. 

9. Child's Corset Waist. 

10. Infant's Waist with Shoulder Seams. 

11. Child's Waist with Shoulder Seams. 

12. Child's Waist with Under- Arm and Shoulder Seams. 

13. Girl's Waist with One Dart, Under- Arm Seams and Side Form. 

14. Sleeve. 

15. Girl's Waist with One Dart, Under- Arm Piece and Curved 

Side Form in the Back. 

16. Girl's Dress Skirt, Five Gore (Front). 

17. Girl's Dress Skirt, Five Gore (Side Gore). 

18. Girl's Dress Skirt, Five Gore (Back). 

19. Yoke for Petticoat. 

20. Drawers. 

21. Infant's Drawers. 

22. Infant's Nightgown (Sleeve). 

23. Girl's Sacque Apron (Sleeve). 

24. Chemise. 

5 



25. Girl's Working Apron. 

26. Girl's One-Piece Dress. 

27. Stocking (Remodeled). 

28. Stocking Foot. 

29. Night Shirt (Back). 

30. Night Shirt (Front). 

31. Sleeve. 

32. Dress Shirt (Back). 

33. Dress Shirt (Front). 

34. Sleeve. 

35. Infant's Shoe. 

36. Infant's Bootee 

37. Infant's Cap. 



Note to the Teacher. — In Illustrations i, 6, 7, 8, 9, 21, 26, 28, 35, 36 
and 37 the number of inches will be found on each line instead of in directions. 



PRACTICAL LESSONS IN DRAFTING 
PART I. 



GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 

1. Specific directions for taking measures will be found in connec- 
tion with each lesson. 

2. All lines are numbered, and all points are marked by a letter. 

3. The word junction is used to designate the intersection of two 
lines in order to lessen the number of letters used. 

4. No seams are allowed in draftings. 

Note to the Teacher. — As all the draftings taught in Part I. 
are done with the ruler and free-hand curves, it would be well in 
the beginning to test the pupils' knowledge of the inch measure and 
its parts, as an introduction to the first lesson. 



18 INCHES 




Fig. I. — Over-sleeve. 



Directions. — Fold a piece of paper 18 
inches square into eighths; measure out from 
the centre on the folds 9 inches; connect with 
a curve. 



LITVE 2 





Fig. 3. — Plain Bib. 



Fig. 4.— Table Bib. 



9 
PLAIN BIB. 

(Fig. 3-) 

Measures : 

1. Length, i8 inches. 

2. Width, 12 inches. 

Directions : 

1. Make the width of oblong half the width of bib ; height of 
oblong the length of front. 

2. Number lines. Left i, top 2, right 3. 

3. On line i make A, 2 inches from junction of lines 2 and i, 

4. On line 2 make B, 2, inches from junction of lines i and 2. 

5. Draw a curve for neck from A to B. (See Fig. 3.) 



TABLE BIB. 

(Fig. 4.) 

Measures: 

1. Length, 20 inches. 

2. Width, 16 inches. 

3. Shoulder, 4 inches. 
Directions : 

1. Make the width of oblong half the width of bib ; the height of 
oblong the length of front. 

2. Number lines. Left.i, top 2, right 3. 

3. On line i, make A, 2 inches from junction of lines 2 and i. 

4. On line 2, make B, 2 inches from junction of lines i and 2. 

5. Draw a curve for neck from A to B. 

6. On line 3, make C, 2 inches from junction of lines 2 and 3. 

7. Place the end of ruler at B, edge touching C, and draw the 
shoulder line. Make D. 

8. On line i, make E, 6 inches below A. 

9. Draw line 4 from £, across the oblong. 

10. On line i, make F, half the distance between E and A. 

11. Make G, 5 inches to the right of F. 

12. Draw arm's eye curve from D to G to end of line 4. (See 
Fig. 4.) 



lO 



LINE 






INFANT'S BIB. 


00 


(Fig. 5-) 


12; 


Measures : 



Fig. 5. — Infant's Bib. 

. e INCHES 



1. Length, 12 inches. 

2. Width, Sh inches. 
Directions : 

1. j\Iake the width of oblong half the width 
of bib ; the height of oblong the length of front. 

2. Number lines. Left i, top 2, right 3. 

3. On hne i, make A , 2 inches from junction 
of lines 2 and i. 

4. Make B, 2 inches below A. 

5. Make C, 2 inches below B. 

6. Draw line 4 from B 2 inches. Make 
D. 

7. Draw a circular curve for neck 
from A to D to C. 

8. Place the ruler at B, edge 
touching junction of lines 2 and 3, 
and make E, 2 inches to the right 
of neck curve. 

, . 9. On line 3 , make 
F, 5 inches from junction of 
lines 2 and 3. 

10. Make G, 4 inches 
below F. 

1 1 . Draw a curve 
from junction of lines 
I and 2, to £, to F, to 
G, to the bottom of 
line I. (See Fig. 5.) 




14 INCHES 

Fig. 6.— Clothes-pin Apron. 



Note. — No directions required for drafting ; follow measurements on lines. 



II 



LINE 1 




Fig. 7. — Boy's Working Apron. 



Note. — No directions required for drafting; follow measurements on lines. 



12 



INFANT'S WAIST WITH STRAP OVER THE SHOULDER. 











\^\ 2 m. 














! 






P 

i 






12 


IN. 





Fig. 8. — One-fourth of pattern. 



CHILD'S CORSET WAIST. 
aVaiN. ^i>iiy^ 2 IN". 




7 IN. 

Fig. 9. — One-fourth of pattern. 



Note. — Dotted lines represent hem on the bottom and double material 
under arm. 




13 

INFANT'S WAIST WITH SHOULDER SEAMS. 

(Fig. lo.) 

Measures: 

1. Bust, 20 inches (a loose 
measure). 

2. Length of front, 7I 
inches (from top of shoulder 
at neck to waist line). 

3. Under arm, 3 inches 
(from close up under the arm 
to waist Hne). 

4. Shoulder, 2^ inches 
(from base of neck to point 

F^g- i°- of shoulder). 

Use these measures and follow directions for child's waist with 
shoulder seams. (See Fig. 11.) 

CHILD'S WAIST WITH SHOULDER SEAMS. 

(Fig. II.) 
Measures: 

1. Bust, 24 inches (a loose measure). 

2. Length of front, 11 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to 
waist line). 

3. Under arm 5J inches (from close up under the arm to waist 
line). 

4. Shoulder, 3J inches (from base of neck down to point of shoul- 
der). 

Directions: 

1. Make the width of oblong half of bust; height of oblong length 
of front. 

2. Number Hnes. Left i, top 2, right 3, bottom 4. 

3. On line 3, make A, under arm measure from junction of lines 
4 and 3. 

4. On Hne i, make B, under arm measure from junction of hnes 
4 and I. 

Note. — This pattern may be used as a waist for petticoats, or, following the 
lines of the upper part, for an infant's yoke. (See Fig. 10.) 



14 



9 

lO 

II 

12 



5. Draw line 5 from A to 5. 

6. Divide line 5 in half; make C. 

7. On line i, make D, 2^ inches from junction of lines i and 2. 

8. On line 3, make £, 2 J inches from junction of lines 2 and 3. 
Draw line 6 from D to E. 

On line 2, make F, 2 inches from junckon of lines i and 2. 
Draw cun^e for front neck from F to D. 
Place the end of ruler at F, 7 inches touching line 6. Draw 



the shoulder line; make G. 

13. On line 2, make H, ih inches from junction of lines 2 and 3. 




LINE 4 



W 



Fig. II. 

14. On line 3, make /, \ inch from junction of lines 2 and 3. 

15. Draw a curve for back neck from H to /. 

16. Place the end of ruler at H, 7 inches touching line 6. 
the shoulder line; make J. 

17. On line i, make A', half the distance between D and B. 
Make L, to the right of K, i^ inches less than B is from C. 
On line 3, make M, half the distance between E and A. 
Make N, to the left of if , li inches less than /I is from C. 
Draw arm's eye curve from G to L, to C, to iV, to J. 



Draw 



18. 
19. 

20. 
21. 



(See 



Fig. II.) 



Note. — If a low neck is desired, divide the shoulder lines in half and follow 
dotted lines on diagram. 

Hems are outlined on bottom and back by dotted lines. 

This waist is frequently used to support all the underclothing that a child 
wears. It may also be used as a waist for an apron with a full skirt. 



15 

CHILD'S WAIST WITH UNDER ARM AND 
SHOULDER SEAM. 

(Fig. 12.) 

Measures: 

1. Bust, 26 inches (a loose measure). 

2. Waist, 24 inches (an easy measure). 

3. Length of front, 12 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to 
waist line). 

4. Under arm, 6 inches (from close up under the arm to waist line). 

5. Shoulder, 4 inches (from base of neck to point of shoulder). 



O p LINE 4 

Fig:. 12. 



<M 




Follow directions for drafting preceding waist, as far as No. 21. 

22. Divide line 4 in half; make O. 

23. One inch to the right of O, make P. (One inch represents 
difference between half of bust and half of waist.) 

24. Connect P and O with C. (See Fig. 12.) 



Note. — See dotted lines on diagram for square neck and hem in the back. 



i6 



GIRL'S WAIST WITH ONE DART, UNDERARM SEAMS 
AND SIDE FORM. 



LINE 2 




5Va IN 



Fig. 14. 



I? 

GIRL'S WAIST WITH ONE DART, X7NDER-ARM SEAM 
AND SIDE FORM. 

(Fig. I3-) 
Measures: 

1. Bust, 27 inches (a loose measure). 

2. Waist, 23 inches (an easy measure). 

3. Length of front, 13 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to 
waist line). 

4. Under arm, 6| inches (from close up under arm to waist line). 

5. Shoulder, 4^ inches (from base of neck down to point of shoul- 
der). 

Follow directions for drafting preceding waists, as far as No. 21. 

22. Divide Hne 4 in half; make O. 

23. Make P, i inch to the right of O. 

24. Make Q, 2h inches from junction of Hnes i and 4. 

25. Make R, i inch to the right of Q. 

26. Make S, 2 inches from junction of Hnes 3 and 4. 

27. Draw a curve from N to S. 

28. Connect C and P. 

29. Draw hne 7 from C to O. 

30. On line 7, make T, ih inches below C. 

31. On hne i, make ?7, 2| inches below B. 

32. Draw line 8 from U to T. 

33. On hne 8, make V, 3 inches to the right of U. 

34. Connect Q and R with F. (See Fig. 13.) 

Note i. — P is obtained by subtracting one-half of waist from one-half of bust 
and deducting i inch for dart. 

Note 2 . — See dotted lines on diagram for pointed yoke and hem in the back. 
The sleeve accompanying this diagram may be enlarged or made smaller to 
suit any of this series of waists. (Fig 14.) 



GIRL'S WAIST WITH ONE DART, UNDERARM PIECE 
AND CURVED SIDE FORM IN THE BACK. 

(Fig- 1 5-) 




Fig. 15- 



Measures : 

1. Bust, 30 inches (a loose measure). 

2. Waist, 22 inches (an easy measure). 

3. Length of front, 14 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to 
waist hne). 



Note. — See lines on diagram for pointed front and dotted lines for round yoke 
and additional fulness on outside material. 



19 
4- Under Arm, 7I inches (from close up under arm to waist line). 
5. Shoulder, 4I inches (from base of neck to point of shoul- 
der). 

Follow directions for drafting preceding waists as far as No. 17. 

18. Make L, to the right of K, 2 inches less than B is from C. 

19. On line 3, make M half the distance between E and A . 

20. Make A^, to the left of 1/, 2 inches less than A is from C. 

21. Draw arm's eye curve from G to L, to C, to A^, to /. 

22. Divide line 4 in half; make O. 

23. On line 4, make P, i inch to the lelt of O. Make Q, 2| inches 
from the junction of lines i and 4. Make R, I'h inches to the right of Q. 
Make S, 2 inches to the right of O. Find the difference between half 
of bust and half of waist; deduct 2| inches, which is taken out for under 
arm and dart, and make T the remainder from S, in this case i| inches 
(placing T to the right of S). Make U, ih, inches from the junction 
of lines 3 and 4. 

24. Make F, on line 5, i| inches to the right of C. 

25. Draw a curve from A'' to U. 

26. Connect T with arm's eye touching V. 

27. Connect V and S. 

28. Connect C and O. 

29. Draw line 7 from C to P. 

30. Make W on line 7, i^ inches below C. 

31. Make .Y on line 1,2^ inches below B. 

32. Draw line 8 from A' to W. 

T)T). On line 8, make Y 3 inches to the right of X. 
34. Connect Q and R with F. (See Fig. 15.) 



20 



GIRL'S DRESS SKIRT— FIVE GORE. 



LITTE 2 




FRONT 

(Fig. i6.) 

Measures: 

1. Length of skirt, 22 
inches (from the waist the desired 
length). 

2. Waist, 24 inches (an easy 
measure). 

Directions: 

Front Fig. 16. 

1. Draw line i, length of 
skirt plus ^ inch; mark top A, 
bottom B. 

2. On Hne i, make C, \ 
inch below A. 

3. Draw line 2 from A, \ 
of waist; make D. 

4. Draw line 3 from B, 10 
inches; make E. 

5. Measure the length of 
skirt from D toward E; make F. 

6. Connect D and F. 



LITTE a 

Fig. 16. 

7. Draw a curve from D to C. 

8. Draw a curve from F to B. (See Fig. 16.) 



21 



GIRL'S DRESS SKIRT— FIVE GORE. 

SIDE GORE. 

(Fig. 1 7.) 



X.INJE 2 




I.IN£ 3 



1. Draw line i, length of skirt 
plus I inch; mark top A, bottom B. 

2. On line i, make C, 1 inch 
below A. 

3. Draw line 2 from ^, ^ of 
waist; make D. 

4. Draw line 3 from B, 20 
inches; make E. 

5. Measure the length 
of skirt from D toward E\ 
make F. 

6. Draw a curve 
from D to C. 

7. Connect D 
and F. 

8. Draw 

a curve 

from i^ to 

B. (See 

EFig. 17.) 



Fig. 17. 



22 



GIRL'S DRESS SKIRT— FIVE GORE. 

BACK. 

(Fig. i8.) 



ilTTE a 




1. Draw line i, length of 
skirt plus I inch; mark top A, 
bottom B. 

2. On line i, make C, i 

inch below A. 

3. Draw line 2 from A, 

I of waist; make D. 

4. Draw line 3 from B, 
20 inches; make E. 

5. M e a s u r e the 
length of skirt; from D, 
toward E, make F. 
6. Connect D and F. 



LINE 8 

Fig. 18. 

7. Draw a curve from D to C. 

8. Draw a curve from F to B. 

9. Make G on curve one-eighth of waist from C. (See Fig. 18.) 



Note. — The space between G and D is intended for fulness in the back. 



23 



YOKE FOR PETTICOAT. 

(Fig. 19.) 



Fig. 19. 



i.iirs2 2 




Measures: 

1. Waist, 24 inches (an 
easy measure). 

2. Width of yoke, 4 
inches. 



Directions: 

1. I inch from top and 
left hand edge of paper, 
draw line i ; mark top A . 

2. Draw line 2 from A 
(square this with line i). 

Note. — Both these lines 
may be drawn an indefinite 
length. 

3. On line i make B 
one-fourth of waist plus 2 
inches from A . 



4- 

5- 
6. 

7- 
8. 

9- 
10. 



Make C the width of yoke below B. 

On line 2, make D one-fourth of waist plus 2 inches from A. 

On line 2, make E the width of yoke from D. 

Draw a circular curve from D to B. 

Draw a circular curve from E to C. 

Measure on top curve from D | inch; make F. 

Connect F and E. (See Fig. 19.) 



24 

DRAWERS. 

(Fig. 20.) 




Fig. 20. 



Note. — Dotted line represents 2-inch hem. 



25 

Measures: 

1. Length, 22 inches (measure from hip down 2 inches below the 
knee). 

2. Waist, 24 inches (a loose measure). 

3. Hip, 36 inches (a loose measure). 

Directions: 

1. Draw hne i, length of leg; mark top A, bottom B. 

2. On hne i , measure up from B half of leg minus 4 inches ; make C. 

3. Draw Hne 2 from A half of waist; make D. 

4. Extend Hne two 3 inches; make E. 

5. Draw hne 3 from C, half of hip; make F. 

6. Draw line 4 from B, half of waist; make G. 

7. Draw hne 5 from F to E. Extend line five 4 inches ; make H. 

8. Connect D and F. 

9. Connect H and A. 

ID. Draw a curve from F to G. (See Fig. 20.) 



SJ'alN. 




INFANT'S DRAWERS. 

(Fig. 21.) 

Note. — No directions re- 
quired for drafting; follow 
measurements on lines. 



8 IN. 



Fig. 21. 



26 



INFANT'S NIGHT GOWN— SLEEVE. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 22.) 
iV EL 




Fisr. 22. 



Note. — Dotted line on front allows for hem and fulness. Make sleeve ac- 
cording to measurements. (See Fig. 22.) 



27 



INFANT'S NIGHT GOWN. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 22.) 

Measures: 

I. Length 27 inches. 

Directions: 

1. One inch from top and 3 inches from left hand edge of paper, 
draw line i , the length of gown ; mark top A , bottom B. 

2. On line i, make C \ inch below A, make D 2 inches below C, 
make E i\ inqhes below D, make F i| inches below E, make G 9 inches 
below F. 

3. Make H I'h, inches to the right of A. 

4. Make / 4^ inches to the right of E. 

5. Make J 6 inches to the right of F. 

6. iv 9 inches to the right of G. 

7. Draw line 2 from Z), 9 inches. 

8. Place the end of the rule at H, 7 inches touching line 2, and 
draw shoulder line (4 inches), make L. 

9. Draw curve for back neck from H to C. 

10. Draw curve for front neck from H to D. 

11. Draw arm's eye curve from L to / to /. 

12. Draw hne 3 from J, i| inches less than from F to B, touching 
dot K, make M. 

13. Draw a curve from M to B. 



28 



GIRL'S SACQUE APRON— SLEEVE. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 23.) 




LINE 4 

Fig. 23. 



-0. 



Note. — See dotted lines for square and round neck and for hems and lap in 
the back. (See Fig. 23.) 

This pattern can be opened down the front instead of the back, and used for 
a sacque nightgown by making it longer and allowing for fulness if desired. 



29 

GIRL'S SACQUE APRON. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 23.) 
Measures: 

1. Length, 27 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to bottom of 
dress). 

2. Bust, 24 inches (an easy measure). 

3. Arm's eye, 11 inches (around arm's eye). 

4. Shoulder, 4 J inches (same as for dress). 



Directions: 

1. I inch from top and ij inches from left hand edge of paper, 
draw line i, the length of apron. Mark top A, bottom B. 

2. On line i, make C J inch below A; make D 2\ inches below A. 

3. Draw a line from A 2 inches long; make E. 

4. Draw Hne 2 from D, 9 inches. 

5. Place the end of ruler at £ 7 inches, touching line 2; draw the 
shoulder line; make F. 

6. Measure straight down from F half of arm's eye; make G. 

7. Square end of the ruler on line i, edge touching G, and draw 
line 3 one-fourth of bust plus i| inches; make /. Make H on line i 
at the end of ruler. 

8. Draw curve for back neck from E io C. 

9. Draw curve for front neck from E to D. 

10. On line I , make / half the distance from Z) to iJ. 

11. Make K, to the right of J, 2 inches less than H is from /. 

12. Draw arm's eye curve from F to K, to I. 

13. Draw line 4, from B twice as long as line 3; make L. 

14. Draw a slanting line from I towards L the same length, minus 
i^ inches, that H is from B on line i ; mark the end of this line M. 

15. Draw a curve from M to B. (See Fig. 23.) 



30 
CHEMISE. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 24.) 




Fig. 24. 



31 
CHEMISE. 

BACK AND FRONT. 

(Fig. 24.) 
Measures: 

1. Length, 35 inches (from top of shoulder at neck to knee). 

2. Bust, 40 inches (a close measure over arms and bust). 

3. Waist, 24 inches (an exact measure). 

4. Arm's eye, 14 inches (around arm's eye). 

5. Under arm, 8 inches (same as for dress). 

Directions: 

1. I inch from top and 3 inches from left hand edge of paper, 
draw line i length of chemise; mark top A. 

2. On line i : 

Make B 2 J inches below A. 

Make C 5 inches below A. 

Make D half of arm's eye below A. 

Make E the under-arm measure below D. 

Mark end of line i F. 

3. Make G to the right of A 4 inches less than one-fourth of bust 
measure. 

4. Draw line 2 one and a half inches to the right of G; make H. 

5. Draw line 3 from D one-fourth of bust; make /. 

6. Draw line 4 from E one-half of waist; make J. 

7. Measure back on line 4 two inches; make K. 

8. Make L to the right of C 2J inches less than from D to /. 

9. Draw a curve from G to B (back neck). 

10. Draw a curve from G to C (front neck). 

11. Draw a curve from H to L, to I (arm's eye curve). 

12. Draw a slanting line from / touching J, the same length (minus 
i| inches) that D is from F on line i; mark end of this line M. 

13. Draw a curve from / to K, to M. 

14. Draw a curve from F to M. (See Fig. 24.) 

Note. — This garment may be shortened and gathered at the waist-hne for a 
corset cover, or it may be trimmed on the bottom and used as a combined corset 
cover and skirt. See dotted line on front neck for additional fulness. Cut on 
curved line from /to J/ for corset cover and skirt combined. For corset cover 
cut the skirt off 6 inches below line 4 (Fig. 24). 



32 

GIRL'S WORKING APRON. 

(Fig. 25.) 




Fig. 25. 



33 
GIRL'S WORKING APRON. 

(Fig. 25.) 

Measures: 

Length of apron, 34 inches (from prominent bone in the back of 
the neck down to bottom of the front of dress). 

Waist, 24 inches (a loose measure). 

Directions: 

1. I inch from top and left-hand edge of paper draw line i the 
length of apron; mark top A. 

2. On line i : 

Make B ih inches below A. 
Make C 2\ inches below B. 
Make D 2\ inches below C. 
Make E 4 inches below D. 
Make F 4 inches below E. 
Make G 5 inches below F. 
Mark the end of line i H. 

3. Draw line 2 from A 4 inches long; make /. 

4. Draw line 3 from B 2 inches; make J. 

5. Draw line 4 from C 3 inches; make K, extend this line 2 J inches; 
make L. 

6. Draw Hne 5 from E 6 inches; make M. 

7. Draw line 6 from F half of waist plus 3 inches. 

8. Draw line 7 from G half of waist plus 6 inches. 

9. Place the end of the ruler 2h inches above Hne 6, edge touching 
line 7, and draw line 8 one inch less than the distance between F and H; 
mark the top of line 8 N, bottom O. 

ID. On line 6, make P 10 inches from F. 

11. Connect / and J. 

12. Draw a curve for neck from J to K, to D. 

13. Draw a curve from / to L, to M, to P, to TV. 

14. Draw a curve from O to H. (See Fig. 25.) 



34 

GIRL'S ONE-PIECE DRESS. 

(Fig. 26.) 

F.„ Line 2. 12m. 




Fig. 26. 



Note. — Take twice the length of the pattern and fold it crosswise, then fold 
the doubled material lengthwise, and place straight edges of pattern to folds of 
material and cut. 



35 




Fig. 27 



STOCKING. 

REMODELED. 

(Fig. 27.) 
Measures: 

1. Length, 22 inches (length of leg 
plus the foot). 

2. Foot, 7 inches (from heel to toe). 

Directions: 

1. Draw line i the length of stocking; 
mark top A , bottom B. 

2. On line i : 

Make C ij inches less than size of 

foot above B. 
Make D 3 inches above C. 
Divide C and B into three equal parts ; 

mark each part by a point. 
Divide A and D into three equal 

parts; mark each part by a point. 

3. Draw horizontal lines from each 
point according to measurements on Fig. 27. 



STCCKING FOOT. 

(Fig. 28.) 

Line 2. 5 in. 




Line 4. 8 in. 



Note. — To increase the width of the stocking, add one-fourth inch to each 

horizontal line ; decrease it by deducting one-fourth inch from each horizontal line. 

Note. — This foot pattern can be used to remodel a stocking or as a bed slipper. 



36 
NIGHT SHIRT. 

BACK. 

(Fig. 29.) 
Measures: 

1. Neck, 15 inches (measure loosely at base of neck). 

2. Breast, 40 inches (a loose measure entirely around the body 
plus 4 inches). 

3. Arm's eye, 16 inches (around the arm to point of shoulder). 

4. Shoulder, 5 inches (from base of neck to point of shoulder). 

5. Length of shirt, 48 inches (from front of neck the desired 
length). 

6. Length of sleeve, 23 inches (from shoulder to wrist with arm 
bent at elbow). 

7. Around the hand, 10 inches (a loose measure). 

SCALE FOR BACK NECK. 

Back neck on line i. Top back neck on line 2. 

10 in. neck requires i\ in. 10 in. neck requires 2 J in. 

11 in. neck requires if in. 11 in. neck requires 2^ in. 

12 in. neck requires ij in. 12 in. neck requires 2| in. 

13 in. neck requires if in. 13 in. neck requires 3 in. 

14 in. neck requires if in. 14 in. neck requires 3I in. 

15 in. neck requires i| in. 15 in. neck requires 3I in. 

16 in. neck requires 2 in. 16 in. neck requires 3f in. 

17 in. neck requires 2^ in. 17 in. neck requires 4 in. 

Directions: 

1. I inch from top and 2 inches from right hand edge of paper, 

draw line i the length of shirt plus i| inches; mark top ^, bottom Z. 

2. On line i : 

Make B according to back neck scale below A. (See scale 
above.) 



37 



NIGHT SHIRT. 

BACK. 

(Fig. 29.) 



GLINE2A 




inches 



12. 

13- 



J LINE e 

Fig. 29. 
Connect H and I. 
Draw curve from I to J 



Z 



Directions: 

Make C 2§ 
below yl. 

Make D 2 inches below 
C (This defines the yoke.) 

Make E half of arm's 
eye below C. 

Make F 8 inches 
above Z. 

3. Draw line 2 from ^ 
according to top back neck 
scale; make G. (See scale on 
page 36.) 

4. Draw line 3 from C 
12 inches. 

5. Draw line 4 from E 
one-fourth of breast ; make H. 

6. Draw Hne 5 from F 
one-fourth of breast; make /. 

7. Draw hne 6 from Z 
two-thirds of line 5; make J. 

8. Draw curve for back 
neck from G to B. 

9. Place the end of ruler 
at G, 7 inches touching line 3 
draw the shoulder line; make 
K. 

10. Make L to the left of 
D 2 inches less than the dis- 
tance between E and H. 

11. Draw arm's eye curve 
from K to L, to H. 



(See Fig. 29.) 



Note. — See dotted line for yoke and for fulness in the back if desired. 



3^ 
NIGHT SHIRT. 



FRONT. 

(Fig. 30 •) 



LINE 2 



C 

K> 
3)> 



LINK 3 



LINE 4: 



V J 




CH 



LIISTE 8 /I 

Fig. 30- 
Direclions: 

Scale for front neck. 
Front neck on line i. 

10 in. neck requires if in. 

11 in. neck requires i| in. 



SLEEVE. 

(Fig. 31-) 




12 in. neck requires 2 in. 

13 in. neck requires 2| in. 

14 in. neck requires 2J in. 

15 in neck requires 2f in. 

16 in. neck requires 2| in. 

17 in. neck requires 2| in. 

Front top neck on line 2. 

10 in. neck requires if in. 

11 in. neck requires i^ in. 

12 in. neck requires if in. 

13 in. neck requires if in. 

14 in. neck requires i| in. 

15 in. neck requires 2 in. 

16 in. neck requires 2^ in. 

17 in. neck requires 2^ in. 



39 
NIGHT SHIRT. 

FRONT. 

(Fig. 30 •) 

1. One inch from top and left hand edge of paper, draw line i 
the length of shirt ; mark top A , bottom Z. 

2. On line i: 

Make B i inch below A. 

Make C according to front neck scale below A. (See scale on 

page 38.) 
Make D half of arm's eye below B. 
Make E 8 inches above Z. 

3. Draw line 2 from A according to top front neck ; make F. (See 
scale on page 38.) 

4. Draw line 3 from B \2 inches long. 

5. Draw line 4 from D one-fourth of breast; make G. 

6. Draw line 5 from E one-fourth of breast; make H. 

7. Draw line 6 from Z two-thirds of line 5; make I. 

8. Draw a curve from jP to C (for front neck). 

9. Place the end of ruler at i^, 7 inches touching hne 3, draw the 
shoulder line; make /. 

10. On line i, make K half the distance between C and D. 

11. Make L to the right of K, 2 J inches less than the distance 
between D and G. 

12. Draw arm's eye curve from / to L, to G. 

13. Connect G and EL. 

14. Draw a curve from Ei to /. (See Fig. 30.) 

SLEEVE FOR NIGHT SHIRT. 

(Fig. 31-) 

1. Draw line i the length of sleeve; mark top yl, bottom Z. 

2. On line i, make B 3 inches below A. 

3. Draw line 2 from B half of arm's eye plus 3 inches; make C. 

4. Draw line 3 from Z half of hand plus 2 inches; make D. 

5. Connect D and C. 

6. Draw a curve from A to C. 

Note. — Cut 17 inches down the center of front for the vent. 
Note. — Follow dotted line on sleeve for cuff. 






IiIiINE2 




40 

DRESS SHIRT. 

BACK. 

(Fig. 32.) 



Measures : 

1. Neck, 15 inches (use size of 
collar or measure loosely at the base of 
neck). 

2. Breast, 40 inches (a loose 
measure taken entirely around the 
body). 

3. Arm's eye, 16 inches (around 
the arm to point of shoulder). 

4. Under arm, 7 inches (from 
close up under arm down to hip). 

5. Shoulder, 5 inches (from base 
of neck to point of shoulder). 

6. Length of shirt, 32 inches 
(from front of neck the desired 
length). 

7. Length of sleeve, 23 inches 
(from shoulder to wrist with arm bent 
at elbow). 

8. Around hand, 10 inches (a 
loose measure). 

Back. (See Fig. 2i2-) 



Directions: 

I. I inch from top and 2 inches 
^' * from right hand edge of paper, 

draw line i length of shirt plus i^ inches; mark top A, bottom Z. 



Note. — Make vent by cutting down the center of the back the desired length. 



41 
DRESS SHIRT. 

BACK. 

(Fig. 32.) 
Directions: 

2. On line i : 

Make B according to back neck scale below A. (See scale on 

page 36.) 
Make C ah, inches below A. 

Make D 2 inches below C. (This gives the yoke.) 
Make E half of arm's eye below C. 
Make F under arm measure below E. 
Make G one-half the distance between F and Z. 

3. Draw hne 2 from A according to top back neck scale; make H. 
(See scale on page 36.) 

4. Draw line 3 from C 12 inches. 

5. Draw line 4, from E one-fourth of breast; make /. 

6. Draw Hne 5 from F one-fourth of breast minus i inch; make /. 

7. Draw hne 6 from G one-fourth of breast; make K. 

8. Draw Hne 7 from Z two-thirds of Hne 6; make L. 

9. Curve from H to B for back neck. 

10. Place the end of ruler at H, 7 inches touching Hne 3, draw 
shoulder line; make M. 

11. On Hne i, make N half the distance between C and E. 

12. Make O to the left of N, 2 inches less than the distance between 
E and /. 

13. Draw arm's eye curve from M to O, to I. 

14. Draw curve from / to J, to K, to L. 

15 Make dotted line from D for yoke; extend this Hne 2 inches to 
the right; gather additional material into yoke between points P and Q. 
(See Fig. 32.) 



42 



DRESS SHIRT. 



FRONT. 



(Fig. 33-: 




Fig. 33- 



Directions: 

I. I inch from top and left-hand edge of paper, draw line i 
the length of shirt; mark top A, bottom Z. 



43 
DRESS SHIRT. 

FRONT. 

(Fig. 33-) 

2. On line i : 

Make B i inch below A. 

Make C according to front neck scale below A. (See scale 

on page 38.) 
Make D half of arm's eye below B. 
Make E the under-arm measure below D. 
Make F one-half the distance between E and Z, 

3. Draw line 2 from A according to top front neck scale; make G. 
(See scale on page 38.) 

4. Draw line 3 from B 12 inches long. 

5. Draw line 4 from D one-fourth of breast; make H. 

6. Draw hne 5 from E one-fourth of breast, minus i inch; make I. 

7. Draw hne 6 from F one-fourth of breast; make J. 

8. Draw hne 7 from Z two-thirds of line 6; make K. 

9. Draw front neck curve from G to C. 

10. Place the end of ruler at G, 7 inches touching line 3, draw 
shoulder hne; make L. 

11. On hne i, make M half the distance between C and D. 

12. Make N, to the right of M, 2 J inches less than the distance 
between D and H. 

13. Draw arm's eye curve from L to N, to H. 

14. Draw curve from H to /, to /, to K. (See Fig. t,2>') 

BOSOM. 

(Fig. 33-) 

1. On hne 4, make O 2)h inches from D. 

2. On hne 5, make P 2 inches from E. 

3. Draw a curve from G to O, to P. 



44 



SLEEVE. 

(Fig. 34.) 




Va or HAyp 



BAND 



:^ 



Fig. 34- 



1 . Draw line i the length of sleeve ; mark top A , bottom Z. 

2. On line i, make B 3 inches below A. 

3. Draw line 2 from B one-half of arm's eye plus 3 inches; make C. 

4. Draw line 3 from Z half of hand plus 2 inches; make D. 

5. Connect D and C. 

6. Draw a curve from A to C. 



45 

INFANT'S SHOE. 

(Fig. 35.) 




FOLD 



5 IN. 



Fig. 35- 



Note. — No directions required for drafting; follow measurements on lines. 



46 



INFANT'S BOOTEE. 



(Fig. 3(.) 




Fig. 36. 



47 



INFANT'S CAP. 

(Fig. 37-) 



FOLD 



Fig- s: 



"""K 





Note. — No directions required for drafting; follow measurements on lines. 



NOV 2? ^9^^ 



